December 26- January 2 - Oudtshoorn

The following was written on 12/31/08

We have come to the Karoo. We actually took a chance on the Karoo and we are so glad we did. The Karoo is a huge part of S. Africa, a 'vast semidesert stretching over miles of the great South African plateau inland from the cape coast'. If you can imagine arid and rocky Eastern Washington
surrounded by the Grand Tetons, you might come close to what it looks like, but then you would drive around the corner and be surprised by something else – a mini grand canyon perhaps. Lonely Planet writes “there's something magical about the vast arid Karoo. Maybe it's the wide open spaces that make you feel so tiny, or maybe it's the towns, which make you feel you've been suspended in time. The population is sparse, and off the main highways you can drive for hours without seeing another car.”


I wrote in my journal yesterday, “I could sit and look at this view forever. I can just sit and not even look. I can just listen to the isolated bird nearby or a myriad of birds in the trees down by the slow river. Sheep, cows, chickens, dogs and the occasional low gutteral call from an ostrich all add their voices to the stillness. Where the land is irrigated it is green – clover fields, pasture for the cows – otherwise it is barren in various shades of brown scrub. So quiet. Today the wind blows bringing cool relief while a layer of clouds protect from the typical noonday sun. It is pastoral. It is desolate, it is lifegiving, calm and restful. I know there are others here, but it feels like I could be the only one. No phones, tv, music, only the occasional car. Peace. Like I said, I could stay here forever.”


At night the stars are out of this world.


We are actually in what is called the Little Karoo, hemmed in by four mountain ranges which severely limits the rainfall, at a wonderful place called Amber Lagoon. Our hosts, Susan and Kurt came here six years ago from Germany. Susan was looking for a place that would let her stay with her dog. They ended up in Oudtshoorn, 30km up the road – the ostrich capital of S. Africa. Eventually they bought the main house at the base of a barren hill and slowly with huge amounts of effort, they are transforming this barren hill into a wonderful lodge and campsite oasis. We are staying in what they call the large stone house – all hand build by the two of them. They have cut miles and miles of cane and reed which they use as building material as well. The amount of work they have done and their artistic creativity is really quite amazing. Kurt is a master chef from Germany and can whip up anything. The house specialty though are the crepes they make.






And the Amber Lagoon? A wonderful pool down near the main house.



Duncan