Wednesday, April 27, 2022

Colors and Contrasts

From the vivid shades of green and blue enveloping Phuket, where this latest three month wandering began, to the hazy gray skies and brown hills of Maehongson, where I spent the final six weeks, I reluctantly returned Seattle where the high temperatures ever day were literally half of what it was in Thailand but I was grateful at least to return to the glorious explosion of color and greenery as the Pacific Northwest fully embraced her Spring wardrobe. 

Here are a few more photos of the color spectrum and contrast. It was the first time I have experienced almost all of the hot season in Maehongson and to watch so many of the hills lose all greenery was quite startling - but with even the first rains which came early this year, leaves magically appear again. Grateful for the reminder that what looks done in and dead often isn't. Scroll down to see dry vs rainy seasons views...

The blues and greens of Phuket...








...to the heat and dry of Maehongson in the hot/dry season... 

Maehongson airport with Wat Doi Kong Mu behind. Notice the grey/brown hill compared to...

...the same view during the rainy season.

Here's a photo of coming into land during the rainy season (green hills might be the giveaway!) If you zoom in you will see something that has always been of interest to me but I could never figure out what it was. This time I went on an adventure and discovered...the old and newer fancy radar system for guiding in the very few planes that land these days in MHS!



Sunday, April 17, 2022

Words that have Sustained - Part 4 - Lent 2022

Round Four of Words that have Sustained - Lent 2022...Prayers and Possibilities...


Phraya Nakhon Cave, Sam Roi Yot National Park, Prachuap Khiri Khan.

3/1

To answer your question,
Yes.

You will die a few more deaths
before your final chapter.

You will stare at the ceiling of
one tomb or another, feel the
gushing roaring ache of
absence.

Don’t let fear become more than
the occasional tightness at the
back of your throat, a
fluttering in the ribcage.

The first death shaped your hands into keys
your shoulder blades into wings
and your heart into a book of poems
that will always remember
the way out.

The first death gave you Life.
Do not lay it down.

- Christa Wells


Posting a couple more shots of Phraya Nakhon Cave because it captures the mood so well.

3/2

Keeping the heart open, even in hell, makes space for the Beloved. It is in the darkest nights of our souls, when all we know is that we know nothing, that the presence of the sacred may quietly well up, mingling with our pain and connecting us to a love that will never die.

Mirabai Starr, WILD MERCY: Living the Fierce and Tender Wisdom of the Women Mystics (H/T Christa Wells)


Old steps leading from Wat Phra Non up to Wat Doi KongMu, Maehongson.
3/3

A Prayer

Refuse to fall down
If you cannot refuse to fall down,
refuse to stay down.
If you cannot refuse to stay down,
lift your heart toward heaven,
and like a hungry beggar,
ask that it be filled.
You may be pushed down.
You may be kept from rising.
But no one can keep you from lifting your heart
toward heaven
only you.
It is in the middle of misery
that so much becomes clear.
The one who says nothing good
came of this,
is not yet listening.

- clarissa pinkola estes

While I agree with the last three lines of this poem, only the person going through the suffering/hard time gets to say that to themselves. No one else has the right or should be foolish enough to say that to another person. If they do, they deserve what they get in return!

Maehongson, view from the other angle of the previous photo.
3/4

In our day to day lives, we often show courage without realizing it. However, it is only when we are afraid that courage becomes a question. Courage is amazing because it can tap into the heart of fear, taking that frightened energy and turning it towards initiative, creativity, action and hope. When courage comes alive, imprisoning walls become frontiers of new possibility, difficulty becomes invitation and the heart comes into a new rhythm of trust and sureness. There are secret sources of courage inside every human heart; yet courage needs to be awakened in us. Courage is the spark that can become the flame of hope, lighting new and exciting pathways in what seemed to be dead, dark landscapes.

JOHN O'DONOHUE



I had lined up a few initial poems and prayers for this series of 'Words' as the last round ended - I am struck by how many of these initial ones speak to the courage/light/darkness we are witnessing in Ukraine. These are not the traditional sunflowers being posted in solidarity with Ukraine, but rather Tithonia diversifolia (sometimes called Mexican Sunflower or tree marigold) that blanket the hills in a few areas in North Thailand in November and December.


3/5

WAITING TO GO ON
It must be
we are waiting
for the perfect moment.

It must be
under all the struggle
we want to go on.

It must be,
that deep
down
we are creatures
getting ready
for when
we are needed.

It must be
that waiting
for the listening ear
or the appreciative word,
for the right woman,
or the right man,
or the right one,
or even
the right moment
just to ourselves,

-we are getting ready
to be ready
and nothing else-

Like this moment
just before
the evening light
arrives
working
by the kitchen
window,

sensing
a deep
down symmetry
in every
blessed thing.

The way
that everything
unbeknownst
to us
is preparing
to meet us too.

Just on the other
side of the door
someone
is about to knock
and our life
is just
about to change

and finally
after all these
years rehearsing,
behind
the curtain,

we might
just be
ready
to go on.

From ‘Waiting to Go On’: in ‘River Flow:
New and Selected Poems’
© David Whyte and Many Rivers Press

My friend Pan who is as gentle with people as he is with this old beach dog on the beach in Pranburi, Thailand.

3/6

Be content to live an anonymous, unspectacular, misunderstood life among people...
Let Christ transfigure the darkness in ourselves & in the world.
Let there be great care to maintain the simplicity of presence...
Love what is obscure & little for there you will find Christ.

- Celtic Daily Prayer Book 2

Just downstream from the Maesagna waterfall, Maehongson 

3/7

When the mind is festering with trouble or the heart torn, we can find healing among the silence of mountains or fields, or listen to the simple, steadying rhythm of waves. The slowness and stillness gradually takes us over. Our breathing deepens and our hearts calm and our hungers relent. When serenity is restored, new perspectives open to us and difficulty can begin to seem like an invitation to new growth.

This invitation to friendship with nature does of course entail a willingness to be alone out there. Yet this aloneness is anything but lonely. Solitude gradually clarifies the heart until a true tranquility is reached. The irony is that at the heart of that aloneness you feel intimately connected with the world. Indeed, the beauty of nature is often the wisest balm for it gently relieves and releases the caged mind.

-JOHN O'DONOHUE
Excerpt from his books, Beauty: The Invisible Embrace (US) / Divine Beauty (Europe)

Sunday, April 10, 2022

How to beat the heat in Maehongson

 

When it's this hot and dry, here are a few ways and favorite places to cool off in Maehongson...

First you need some young friends who beg and beg you to go swimming...

The same young friends in 2019... growing up - but they still want to swim!

Maesagna Reservoir

Waterfall and stream feeding into Maesagna Reservoir





The former Holiday Inn - now in disrepair - used to be a nice cooling off spot - not so much now!

Though scenic, Jongkham lake really isn't where you should be swimming but several vendors make really nice fruit drinks there. 

Sometimes you have to settle for a very small pool.

Even when outdoors, sometimes the pool can be small.



When you need a little more than a puddle, you head for the biggest river around - the Pai river, that soon after this point crosses the border into Myanmar/Burma

Another vantage point - I was told Queen Sirikit came and visited here...


Wednesday, April 6, 2022

Finally Maehongson

Leaving the big city...

...for a somewhat smaller one!

Jongkham Lake

Wat Doi Kong Mu

View from Wat Doi Kong Mu overlooking the city.

Long time readers of this blog will know that the province of Maehongson nestled on the very northwest edge of Thailand along the Myanmar border is near and dear to my heart. After finishing up the rice harvest at the end of 2019, I tried to get here last year but the Covid restrictions were too many. So finally as February was ending I was able to fly direct from Bangkok to this place where I am home - and just in time to experience a few cool nights before the really hot season arrived. And though I usually stay in the homes of friends, I decided that now as an adult:-), I like to control what and when I eat and not be on someone else's schedule, so I ended up staying the past six weeks at a small but beautiful and beautifully managed guest house called Jongkham View which as its name suggests is nestled right next to Jongkham Lake in the center of  town. 

Considering that I have spent most of the pandemic travelling and based out of four countries - AND that I couldn't even get to Maehongson last year due to the strict covid restrictions in place, it is ironic that I have had multiple covid exposures since arriving here  - largely  from friends who didn't realize it when we shared a meal or travelled in a car together.  Thankfully all of my  subsequent ATK tests have been negative, though covid has remained rampant the entire time I've been here.   Schools were scheduled to end at the end of March and they finally gave up about two weeks before the end of the year as they literally kept sending whole classrooms or grades home for a week only to have them return and another kid would test positive. Wash and repeat. Why the schools weren't testing regularly - for example, testing everyone on a Monday or once a week as students arrived prior to class and then just sending those who test positive home, I don't know. It hasn't been very well thought out IMHO. Covid also made visiting different villages difficult as each village would want you to show a negative test result from the previous three days - and some villages had their own flare ups at various times that I tried to avoid. I only made it to Patyng twice and never was able to get to Napajat.

Though I didn't make it to Napajat, I saw P'Toi frequently in town.

Visiting Patyng, but keeping my distance as Auntie Yui wasn't feeling great that day and Auntie Peng (Uncle Yurn's widow) had also been exposed to covid the day I was visiting.)

Patyng and 'my' rice fields

Dry rice fields, dry hills, dry and hot everything...