As March continued to march forward, all of a sudden I could smell smoke creeping into my air conditioned room for the first time one night. Now I just smell like I have been living in a camp fire the past two weeks. This is the season of burning fields and forest hillsides throughout much of Asia - especially here in Thailand - even though it is supposedly illegal. If you look at any sort of map showing what parts of the world are literally on fire at the moment or check in on the air quality index, you will see that Thailand is mostly shimmering red at the moment. A hazy, hot, horrendous, smoky month of March is usually to be expected - but on a recent Saturday I woke up, thinking I would go for a usual morning walk/run and I realized it was worse than usual. I checked online to see what the AQI was and was quite surprised to see 549! The week before I had seen a news report that Maehongson and Chiangmai had the worst air in the world and it was only in the 240 range - but 549!? Needless to say, the run didn't happen that morning or for several weeks as the numbers just continued to rise
One night I went to a meeting at church and all the hills around us were on fire. I knew the next day would be bad - and it was. Often the temple on top of the hill - even the hill isn't visible in the morning.
And what makes the hot smoky season bearable? No it's not the ineffective spray from the fire trucks that someone hopes will eliminate some of the smoke! The mornings are still cool (ironically probably because of the smoke not allowing sunlight to get through), cool drinks of all varieties whether from 7-11 or your local coffee shop/juicer/herbalist...including coconut coffee (crack open a coconut, pour all the liquid on ice and add your americano...refreshing in so many ways!! ...and the beauty in the desolation - orchids and trees dressing in their finest on the hottest days, sunsets and the overall light every day, and of course picnics by and swimming in the river...
Another way to deal with the heat and smoke is to escape to a favorite beach (Huahin) where in spite of rampant development and growth, the beach and the sea and the sunrises remain remarkably timeless and unchanged. This was my final stop before returning to Seattle just in time for my dad's 90th birthday!
One last photo of this prolific orchid that blooms and shows off all it's beauty in the midst of the desolation!
Duncan
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