November 18-20, Durban

It rained all Monday night before we left for Durban on Tuesday, so when we pulled out of Sani Lodge, we discovered that what had been a nice dirt/gravel road was now a bit of a mudpit and though the car drove fine through it, by the time we reached the paved road a few km's down, our white polo was now completely brown. We found a car wash which consisted of three people who made it look brand new for $3.50 and then continued on for a couple hours down to Durban where the car decided to have two ten second seizures – real heavy vibrations. It never stalled and we kept going no problem. Got to our next lodging – The Happy Hippo and called rental company to tell them about it. We knew we would be doing some time in game parks and didn't want to die in the bush and not be able to get out of the car because we could be eaten. The rental company came the next day but before they arrived I looked under the hood/bonnet and realized that though our car looked clean on the outside, all up under the engine was as muddy as the car had been outside. Thinking we are now in deep trouble with the car company – sometimes they can be a little funny about the roads you drive on, made us a little nervous but the exchange was made just fine. Now driving a Toyota Corolla.

We explored Durban's excellent botanical gardens, bought some camping gear and food for the next week, took a quick swim and for my birthday, as has been tradition for the past 15 years or so went and saw the new James Bond Quantum of Solace as it came out in SA the day before. Two thumbs up. Daniel Craig has certainly saved the enterprise! Durban (and also Piertermartizburg) are two cities where the disparity between rich and poor, black and white are not quite so obvious. Durban has a large asian/indian population. Walking through a mall, you are just as likely to see all skin tones shopping and consuming the latest food and fashion.

Duncan