Florida

The pansies have taken a beating
Drooped like frozen lettuce
Even the decorative winter kale looks bedraggled
Snowdrops that offered a bright sign of hope are buried under more snow
The international diplomats are regretting the day they were assigned to this city,
Normally a plumb location
The locals mutter about the ongoing deep freeze

Enough said!

I wrote the lines above a couple weeks ago and not much has changed since. This winter drags on. Today we have about a foot of snow on the ground providing many with a day off from work (although many parents have had just enough days off already this year and are worried that the school year will stretch into July.) This is the first significant snow DC has had in four years (actually since Snowmeggedon in 2010.) Like many in this country we have endured the Polar Vortex slipping off its mantle to come visit those of us further south as well as consistently below normal temperatures for weeks. Here in DC, the temperatures are for the most part still bearable - and really nothing to complain about compared to my friends who live in Minneapolis or Winnipeg (otherwise known as the tundra) where I see their facebook posts proudly proclaiming their status of 20 or 30 degrees below zero. Given the cold and my decreased desire to leave the house, today I am going to crank up the heat and write about our recent trips to Florida. Maybe doing this will help :-)

Stillness off of Pine Island

Last June we visited Pine Island which is just off the coast of Fort Myers/Cape Coral. Most people head to this part of the country for fishing and boating. We went for two reasons. 1. Celebrate our ten year anniversary! And 2. (admittedly this was more my agenda) to check out the mango trees. Anyone who knows me knows that I am a little besotted with anything that reminds me of my tropical homelands so the concept of mango trees on the U.S. mainland is quite the novel concept to me. And while we have been to other parts of Florida in the past ten years, I had never before made it into the year round frost free zone. And indeed I was not disappointed.

Old Florida

Much of Pine Island is zoned for agricultural use with many orchards and nurseries growing palms and all kinds of tropical fruit trees.  We arrived just at the start of peak mango season. Some houses set up tables outside selling mangoes on an honor system. Other houses just let their mangoes drop and rot on the grass much like apple trees further north (but much more of a travesty - except for when tropical longing folks come by and can pick up the good fruit lying there! Which we did.) There was also a great fruit stand that sold many variety of mangoes and other tropical fruit just around the corner from where we stayed. We had read online that you should get their early because the "asians" will swoop in and buy up everything some days. So we did...and it was true, after we had been there five minutes, the "asians" did come and finished up the baskets of lychees that had just been picked that morning. And who can blame them. This "Asian" would do the same thing if we lived closer. But we had to fly back so we were somewhat more limited.  Fortunately we had already claimed our fruit which we enjoyed the next few days while still having enough to pack home with us!

Mangoes, Lychees and a pretty good view from our room

Tarpon Lodge

We stayed at the Tarpon Lodge which lulled us quickly into the charms of 'Old Florida' and loved every moment of our time there. (For my Trip Advisor review click here.) Being summer, the afternoon storms came in every day but just as quickly moved on. While we were there we realized that the owners of Tarpon also had a sister property across the water which was even more 'old Florida.' And the lure was set...

...for our return to Florida last month for what we call our annual "escape from winter."  We left DC early in the morning while it was still dark (and below freezing of course)! Two flights, two taxis, and one boat ride later we arrived at my new favorite place - Cabbage Key, a small 100 acre island off of Pine Island. For a review go here. The island is perhaps most famous for its restaurant which is covered with one dollar bills (some estimate that there are over $70,000 in $1 bills) which guests have taped to the walls over the years. Supposedly this is also where Jimmy buffet wrote his Cheeseburger in Paradise song if that means anything to anyone. The restaurant on Cabbage Key can get between 600-800 visitors a day during peak time. Most just come to the restaurant for lunch and dinner either on their own boats or on tours with far fewer guests staying overnight in the rooms and cottages on the island. I wrote in my review on Trip Advisor that it was a challenge to review the lodging as it feels like I am sharing a secret that I shouldn’t be sharing (that staying on the island is awesome) and because I kind of want to keep it to myself! I wonder if others who have stayed overnight also feel the same way and they decided not to write a review in hopes of keeping it a secret. Even the website does not do justice to the accommodations – only showing an exterior view of each cabin/house. I was reassured that even if I reveal how great a place to stay this is, the owners are committed to keeping the island the way it is in all its old Florida charm and quaintness. 

Cabbage Key main building and restaurant - what you see when you dock at the marina

We stayed in the Tarpon Cottage for four nights– a wonderful, light, bright, simple but very clean two bedroom cottage which included a well equipped kitchen.  We could sit inside in the living room, on the screened porch or out on the dock and watch the water and sunsets, and the boats and dolphins go by. What more could you want!?  We did read a previous review that suggested bringing your own supply of water if you are staying as the water is from a well and not filtered, which we did, and then we were told by someone on staff that we could probably drink the water but they wouldn’t advise it. We did drink it – it was a little brackish but we were fine -AND we discovered that if you make lime juice it tastes just like Nam Manao (Thai lime juice with a little salt added). 

Tarpon Cottage with a friend

Close up of our friend

The view out the back window

Sunrise over our dock

 The island is wonderful to explore and kept very natural - with birds and other critters in abundance. Going in January meant few bugs and we beat the busiest time of year.  We can’t wait to go back and hope to make it a yearly event! Here are a few more photos.

Watching a beautiful view and a snowy blast back where we came from!

The view from the water tower on Cabbage Key

The Water Tower

Sunset

 Duncan

'Tis the Season...

...for catching up on this blog! 

...for choosing the images that go on our compilation card that we began after our trip five years ago...

From a baby panda named Bao Bao (meaning Precious/Treasure) born this year in the DC Zoo and who might be one of the cutest creations ever (seriously go to the National Zoo Panda cam and tell us we are wrong) to a large horse named Andrew, flowers and fruit, trips to Belize, Florida, Amish Country, Durham and Seattle, the images here represent some of the seasons and moments this past year that have brought us joy.

...for cookie decorating. Check out these cookies our next door neighbor dropped off for us! Who does this? Even the elf/gnome (?) has rouge on his cheeks!

...for a newish tradition - finding a poem or phrase that will carry us through the next year. Last year I found two - The Julian of Norwich 'All Shall be Well' quote which we included on our Christmas card and here and the amazing excerpt taken from WH Auden’s For The Time Being: A Christmas Oratorio which I posted here on Geography of Grace, a website I still manage and edit.

This year we have already found the poem courtesy of our friend Deb in Durham. She knows us well. She knows that though life is often challenging, life is also good and so on her Christmas card to us she gave us our poem for the year...

May I Suggest

May I suggest to you

May I suggest (to you that) this is the best part of your life

May I suggest

this time is blessed for you

This Time is blessed and shining

almost blinding bright

Just turn your head

And you'll begin to see

The thousand reasons that were just beyond your sight

The reasons why

Why I suggest to you

Why I suggest this is the best part of your life

- Susan Werner, Sung by Red Molly

Good words for me, for so many reasons! There have been challenges along the way but we know that God continues to be with us and for all this we are grateful. Whether near or far, we send you warm greetings. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Duncan and Andrea
PS - below are a few more photos from this year (that didn't make the Christmas card.)

 We loved the couple trips we were able to take to warm places this year including Belize (see earlier post) as well as four days down in Florida on Pine Island where we went to check out the novelty of mangoes on the mainland - and they did not disappoint!

 We enjoyed seeing our families (Duncan for his dad's 80th Birthday surprise in April - see previous post) and both of us in August. Loved going on a family hike and love this picture of the Wilson- Butler clan.

 And in spite of not enjoying everything about this city we live in, there is much we do enjoy and we have tried to take full advantage of seasons, museums, monuments, gardens, historical sites and activities. Photo above - during the Cherry Tree Blossoms - sometimes you can actually see the blooms in spite of all the people!

In addition to Bao Bao, Rusty the Red Panda also made headlines when he escaped the zoo for a day and wandered around the local neighborhood. This we also followed with great interest.

The Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens is a little known National Park here in DC but is amazing when all the water lilies are in bloom.

At the Library of Congress, with a view of the Capital

Walking through a recent snowfall

We are grateful for your friendship as we continue to tip toe and explore life together. 

Lies upon lies = Seattle Surprise for my Dad’s 80th Birthday.

After a couple months of secret conversations with my mom, sister and others, I caught a flight from DC to Seattle for the big surprise! Here’s a brief tweet like recap...

Don’t “meet me in St. Louis” airport! You have to go through security again when you transfer from A gates to C gates!

Landed in Seattle at 9PM - a helpful man says to me “Sir, young man, are you finding everything you need?” Reassuring to my 40 year old self.

Missed the 9:15PM express bus into W. Seattle. Waiting inside for the 10:15. Seattle is still cold and damp!

10:15PM bus arrives. West Seattle Express? “No we just go to the Burien transit center” even though the sign clearly says it still goes past my parent’s front door in West Seattle (or used to!)

 The bus driver now has decided that I’ll have to catch two connecting buses. Hopefully I make it by my dad’s birthday in five days!!!

Bus driver lecturing me that I should plan better!? I call Andrea’s parents. They aren’t home.

At 10:30PM I called my parents. Dad answers. “Is mom there?” Yes, what’s wrong? Dad thinks something is wrong as it’s 1:30AM on the east coast where he thinks I am.

Mom gets on the phone. I explain we probably need to tell Dad…so he can come pick me up! I hear her say, “Can we go pick Duncan up, he’s in Burien.” (Surprise #1)

I wait. Dad still assuming something bad has happened to me or Andrea. When they arrive, I say I would use the phone to let them know if something happens rather than tell them at the Burien transit center!

I tell them I have a conference to go to on Monday in Portland and knowing it was the weekend before his big birthday, I thought I’d surprise him. (1^st lie) and that I’ll fly to Portland Sunday PM. (2^nd lie)

But, I let slip that I have a direct flight back to DC from Seattle. Dad picks up on this and wants to know when and how I am returning to Seattle from Portland. (I quickly make something up – 3rd lie)

Mom has bought my lies too and whispers that I could get a ride down to Portland with relatives who will be returning after the planned party. “Mom, there is no conference!” (I must be quite convincing.)

Grateful that even though the first part of the surprise didn't go as planned (knocking on the door!) all is well.

The plan is that after church on Sunday, Esther, Jon, Hana and Naomi are coming over for lunch. As church begins, Dad realizes that my mom’s three brothers and wives are all there too. (Surprise #2)

After church we all head to Spuds Fish and Chips (Seattle’s oldest fast food place!) I haven’t seen my uncles and aunts and cousin Lynn for at least five years! It's good to seem them. 

 We’re done with lunch earlier than we thought and have an hour to kill before we show up at the party. We walk the beach. I lie (again!) and tell my dad that I can get a ride down to Portland with my uncle and aunt and suggest we all go to my parent’s place to get a cup of coffee and I can collect my suitcase.

On the way, my mom “suggests” we stop at Party Host Betty’s house so she can pick up something.

Dad is having none of this as he thinks family members are right behind us and he needs to get home to put the coffee on. She insists.

Dad says “Make it quick, one minute, no chit chat!” And he stays in the car! Mom and I go to Betty’s house where people are starting to gather.

Betty goes out to the car and persuades my dad to come in for a minute and well…the surprise is successful! (Surprise #3)

I tell my dad there is no conference.

Hook, line and sinker…

A Big thank you to all those who came to the party and those who sent cards and greetings from around the world and to Betty for hosting! Betty (photo below, along with Bonnie who helped make the party happen, holding a poster of my dad as a choir boy) had blown up some old photos of my dad which were a hit with everyone especially the one of my parents leaning on a post before they were married.  My parents of course, don’t see what all the fuss is about!

More photos on facebook.

Belize, January 27- February 5

Belize City (starting point for all things Belize!)

We had been waiting and wanting to return to Belize since we spent three weeks there in 2004. On that trip, we wandered  throughout this unique country, enamored by its small size and population (300,000+), marveling at the beauty of ocean and jungle, loving being in a warm tropical land again – and yes, we DID see a jaguar – in broad daylight and not even while we were in the Cockscomb Jaguar Preserve, but as we drove through an orange grove on a little moped.

Though there has been a fair bit of travel for the Wilsons in the past few years, there hasn’t really been a true do-nothing, sit on the beach vacation/holiday in quite some time. So to mark our six months here in DC and to celebrate Andrea’s graduation last year, after inaugurating a president on Monday, and then surviving sub freezing temperatures and snow showers all week, we were happy to head to the airport on Saturday January 26. We called our friend Deb from the airport to inform her we were going off the grid. Feeling somewhat witty, I simply said that I had four words to share: “Snow today, Belize tomorrow.”

Goodbye cold, brown, DC

Because we were using miles, we had to spend the night in Atlanta. Thankfully I have a former colleague from Tacoma who lives in Atlanta with her husband at the moment so this gave us a great reason to catch up with Amy and Michael, whose wedding we had attended in Nashville almost two years ago. We caught up and talked much before leaving early Sunday morning for our short flight to Belize City.

Amy starting our vacation off with a yummy dinner!

Hello Warm, Green and Blue Belize

Hello Warm, Green and Blue (Belize City)

Hello Warm, Green and Blue Belize (taken while kayaking)

In 2004 we had a little more time so we bused our way around the country. With only just over a week this time, we decided that we would splurge and fly with Tropic Air (highly recommended) from Belize City to Dangriga in the south and then continue on to our first stopping point, the village of Hopkins. This 20 minute flight would save us about 5-6 hours of travel time.  We expected that we would be on a small 8-10 seat plane, which was still plenty exciting, so we were very surprised when we walked out onto the runway and saw a small Cessna waiting for us. They sat me next to the pilot (literally in the co-pilot seat) and Andrea behind us. I haven’t seen Andrea have such a wide joyful smile in a long time. One of Andrea’s pre-diabetic dreams would have been to be a pilot – so it was a lot of fun to experience this small plane adventure. The female pilot immediately won some major points when she asked Andrea if she was a model as she was climbing in to the back seat. You can’t go wrong with that. Plus a female pilot – who was great and when we asked how long she had been flying, she responded, “By myself, just since September” which was cool…sort of. This short flight started our week off beautifully as we flew along the coast and came to a smooth landing in Dangriga. From there it was a bumpy taxi ride over unpaved roads to the Garifuna village of Hopkins to be reunited with Ingrid at All Seasons Guest House where we stayed 8 years ago.

Our little plane (on the right) 

Little plane, BIG smile

For the real flight enthusiasts, here are three videos, of takeoff, in-flight and landing. (Landing being the most interesting!)

I have mentioned All Seasons Guest House previously on the blog as one of my favorite places to stay.  On that trip Ingrid and the room she put us in provided some much needed redemption as we had a “rough” first night in the village staying in another local house with no screens, lots of mosquitoes, and a solitary light bulb hanging from the ceiling before we stumbled upon All Seasons the next day. Also on that trip the sea was stormy and the sand fleas/flies intense. At one point we counted and Andrea ended up with over 200 bites! Why we wanted to return then must have reflected greatly on Ingrid’s care and hospitality…and the possibility of seeing a jaguar again!

Ingrid already thinks we are the luckiest people around for seeing that jaguar as she has been there now 12 years and has never seen one – she immediately brought this up and added that in all her flying back and forth to Belize City over the years, she has rarely flown in the two passenger Cessna, so we truly must be lucky AND to top it all off, we had brought good sunny weather with us as it had been raining for the previous two weeks. Last time we stayed in her main guest house, this time we stayed in our own beautiful wood cabana, surrounded by coconut trees, right on the beach  further south of the village (For full Trip Advisor review, please go here. )

Hopkins Cabana

View from the cabana

Cabana bedroom

All Seasons Guest House

 We spent the next three days swimming in and watching the ocean, walking along the beach, reading…everything you want in a do nothing vacation. We also went kayaking up the Sittee River (which was just down the road from us) and into a lagoon, looking for manatees (which though more abundant than jaguars, have been more elusive to the wandering Wilsons) and although we didn’t see any, we did see lots of great birds including this juvenile Bare Throated Tiger Heron.

Bare throated Tiger Heron

Kayaking

Looking for Manatees

Given our “luck” at getting the two seater plan flying down to Dangriga, we decided to fly back to Belize City that same way. We weren’t so lucky this time but still enjoyed another great flight, although no longer on a “private” flight! After a quick taxi ride (by someone  bearing a really strong resemblance to TeilaTuli who plays Kamekona on the current  Hawaii 5-0) and a yummy plate of Rice and Beans and Stewed Chicken and plantains, we were on a boat for the short 40 minute ride to the island Caye Caulker.

We had also stayed on Caye Caulker 8 years ago and loved it. It’s a very small island, no cars (8 years ago, just a few golf carts) and not too many people. Time has brought many many more golf carts, and more tourists (and long term gringos) which seems to have increased the sense of hustle on the island as well the number of men hustling one thing or another.  Andrea experienced this first hand one night when I wasn’t feeling so well and she went out to buy dinner, meeting many suitors as well as one of the island’s resident drug dealers along the way! They always say single women will be hassled more and it was really true and unfortunate as it lessens the appeal in a big way. But not enough that we didn’t enjoy ourselves in another beautiful cabana (see review here) right on the water found through Caye Caulker Rentals. The weather was more rainy but there was enough sun to keep us warm and enough wind blowing to keep us cool. I went snorkeling on a tour (always highly recommended) including the stop at Shark Ray Alley where as your boat pulls up, the sharks (nurse sharks – but still sharks as big as me) and manta rays come crowding in hoping for some food. Instead swimmers hop out and they swim all around you. When we first experienced this eight years ago I didn’t jump in right away. I thought I would let someone else go first - just in case.

Caye Caulker Cabana view

One other highlight from Caye Caulker (and another reason we wanted to return to Belize in general) is the fresh squeezed orange juice – which we experienced every morning at Glenda’s, our favorite breakfast spot along with fresh cinnamon rolls. (We also squeezed our own OJ!) There are plenty of “tourist” places to eat on Caulker – our style is to find the more local owned and run and support these – and generally the food is better and cheaper too. So in addition to Glenda’s, Syd’s and the Little Kitchen are highly recommended!

Breakfast at Glenda's

Fresh Squeezed!

Yummy papaya and coconut (cut down and cut open by  yours truly)

So all in all, a wonderful nine days away from the cold, just enough time to get some flip flop tan lines back on my feet and give us some rest and relaxation. Belize is still highly recommended in our books. Since we first went we have been responsible for three couples honey mooning there and another friend’s whole extended  family went on vacation there also – we should be getting a commission!

PS - speaking of jaguars and all things Belize, though we didn't see any large cats on this trip we did meet an incredible photographer named Chris Smith (who also happens to be a TCK) who had spent two weeks on a walk about in Belize. Check out his fantastic photos here (including many of the fabled big cat that so many go looking for. His jaguar pictures were taken at the Belize Zoo - which we highly recommend if you ever get a chance to go (and you should definitely go!))

Duncan